Cover
Contents
Acknowledgments
Preface: The Lens of Fashion
Chapter One The 1860s
Beauty in Austerity
Early decade dresses
The cage crinoline
The bonnet
The sheer dress
The Garibaldi shirt
The skirt and jacket ensemble
The cloak
The silk dress
The mourning dress
The alpaca dress
Straps and stripes
The dinner dress
The print dress
The visiting dress
The Zouave jacket
The plain dress
Military details
The maternity dress
Out and about
The little hat
The gored skirt
The short dress
Late-decade jewelry

The chemisette
The skating costume
The daily dress
The walking dress
The plaid dress
Chapter Two The 1870s
Change and Choice
The basque bodice
The silk apron
The walking suit
The riding habit
The calico dress
Jewelry
The scarf
The striped dress
The polonaise
The practical wedding dress
The tournure
Flounces
The round hat
The reception dress
The fichu
Sack waists and paletots
The big bow
Shirring
The cuirass basque
The narrowing silhouette
The jacket basque
The promenade costume
The asymmetric dress

The Princess dress
The turban bonnet
The mourning dress
Separates
Contrasting sleeves
The Derby hat
Chapter Three The 1880s
Contrasts and Control
The formfitting dress
The dolman and the ulster
The cloth suit
The street dress
Mourning
The long lace collar
The polonaise walking dress
The jersey basque
Velvet
The Mother Hubbard
Wash dresses
Battlements and vandykes
The blouse waist
The bird trimmed hat
The return of the tournure
Dressed for a stroll
The everyday dress
T he sealskin coat
High hats
Corseted

Menswear style
The graduation dress
The long overskirt
The nurse's dress
Tennis attire
The swimming suit
The influence of the tea-gown
The end of the large bustle
The wedding dress
The slim silhouette
Fitted dresses and statement hats
The house dress
The Directoire redingote
Chapter Four The 1890s
The New Woman
The tailor-made
Everyday dresses
The watering-place dress
The dark print dress
Cross-dressing for the stage
Capes and coats
Tight lacing
High-shouldered sleeves
The little bolero and the Swiss belt
The Watteau back

The evening dress
The trained gown
Dresses for Western girls
Clothes for college girls
The tea-gown, the morning gown
The traveling suit
The cycling costume
By the sea
The graduation gown
The boa
Fancy collars, plastrons, and yokes
The huge sleeve
Big boxy coats
The pouched front
Hunting gear
The bell skirt
Working girls
The late-decade wedding dress
The late-decade tea-gown
Summer dresses
Trimmed hats
The hourglass shape
The puff sleeve
Coaching outfits
The ruffled dress
The casual shirtwaist
The man's collar and tie