001450469 000__ 06644cam\a2200613\i\4500 001450469 001__ 1450469 001450469 003__ OCoLC 001450469 005__ 20230310004527.0 001450469 006__ m\\\\\o\\d\\\\\\\\ 001450469 007__ cr\cn\nnnunnun 001450469 008__ 221021s2022\\\\sz\a\\\\ob\\\\001\0\eng\d 001450469 019__ $$a1348487671 001450469 020__ $$a9783030946135$$q(electronic bk.) 001450469 020__ $$a3030946134$$q(electronic bk.) 001450469 020__ $$z9783030946128 001450469 020__ $$z3030946126 001450469 0247_ $$a10.1007/978-3-030-94613-5$$2doi 001450469 035__ $$aSP(OCoLC)1348285330 001450469 040__ $$aYDX$$beng$$erda$$epn$$cYDX$$dGW5XE$$dEBLCP$$dN$T$$dOCLCF$$dUKAHL 001450469 043__ $$ae-uk-en 001450469 049__ $$aISEA 001450469 050_4 $$aGT1720 001450469 08204 $$a391/.20904209043$$223/eng/20221031 001450469 1001_ $$aRoberts, Cheryl,$$eauthor. 001450469 24510 $$aConsuming mass fashion in 1930s England :$$bdesign, manufacture and retailing for young working-class women /$$cCheryl Roberts. 001450469 264_1 $$aCham :$$bPalgrave Macmillan,$$c[2022] 001450469 264_4 $$c©2022 001450469 300__ $$a1 online resource (xxv, 332 pages) :$$billustrations (some color). 001450469 336__ $$atext$$btxt$$2rdacontent 001450469 337__ $$acomputer$$bc$$2rdamedia 001450469 338__ $$aonline resource$$bcr$$2rdacarrier 001450469 4901_ $$aPalgrave studies in fashion and the body 001450469 504__ $$aIncludes bibliographical references and index. 001450469 5050_ $$aIntro -- Acknowledgements -- Contents -- About the Author -- List of Figures -- 1 Introduction: Premise -- Time Frame -- Definition of Terms -- 1930s Working Class and Locale -- Young, Modern, Working-Class Women in the 1930s -- The Definition of Working-Class Dress -- Affordability -- Ready-Made, Ready-to-Wear and Lightweight Clothing -- The Framework and Structure of This Book -- The Fusing of Business Archives and Object-Based Research: A Developing Approach to Fashion and Dress Histories -- Conclusion -- Notes -- Works Cited -- 2 Agents of Change -- Social Place -- Locality and Locale 001450469 5058_ $$aShared Community Values and Indicators of Class -- Poverty -- Class and Poverty -- Employment as an Indicator of Class -- Employment Possibilities -- Wage Contribution -- Social Communities of Work -- Leisure -- Defining Agents of Change -- Notes -- Works Cited -- 3 What Is Fashion? -- Communicating Fashion -- Fashion and Individuality -- Individuality and Community Identity -- Peer Group, Social Pressure and Individual Dressing: Fashion in the Eye of the Beholder -- Dress as a Social Indicator and Social Uniform -- Conformity -- Taste -- Issues of Mass Fashion: Innovators or Emulators? 001450469 5058_ $$aMaterial Agency -- Fashion or Style? -- Notes -- Works Cited -- 4 Progressive Production Practices: Developments in Design, Print, Colour Forecasting and Fabric -- Designing Fashionable Lightweight Ready-Made Dresses -- Fabric Designs and Textile Prints -- Floral Frocks, Designers and Frivolity -- Colour Forecasting -- Colour in the Wardrobe of a Young Working-Class Woman -- Rayon: The Fabric Revolution and British Suppliers -- Artificial Fibres: The Importance of Quality and the Sensory -- Notes -- Works Cited 001450469 5058_ $$a5 New Developments and Technological Change: The Business of Mass Manufacturing Fashion -- London as a Centre for Mass Fashion -- Fashion Fluctuations -- Mass Manufacture or Technological Determinism: Creators of Consumption -- Technological Determinism: Vertical Integration Versus Vertical Disintegration -- Small Factory Production -- Jewish Workshops and Factories -- Workforce and Gender Change -- The Small Factory and the Shift to Dressmaking -- Methods of Production: "Making Through" and Sectionality -- Technological Driven Change? -- Wholesale Methods: The Manufacturing Middleman 001450469 5058_ $$aThe Specialist Wholesaler, the Fashion Copy House Designers and Levels of Wholesale -- The Trading System for the Manufacturing Wholesaler of Ready-Made Lightweight Day Dresses and Their Eventual Decline -- The New Providers of Mass Manufactured Lightweight Day Dresses -- Multiple Trading: In House Manufacture vs. Direct from Manufacturer -- C&A. The Self-Sufficient Womenswear Provider -- C&A: Factory Revolutionaries-Advancement in the Mass Manufacture of Lightweight Day Dresses -- C&A's "Style Monotony", Consumer Demand and Manufacturing Turnover 001450469 506__ $$aAccess limited to authorized users. 001450469 520__ $$aThis book details a significant and largely untold history of the demand for cheap, fashionable clothing for young working-class women. This is an interdisciplinary fashion and business history analysis that investigates the design, manufacture, retailing and consumption of fashion for and by young working-class women in 1930s Britain. It concentrates on new mass developments in the design and manufacture of lightweight day dresses styled for younger women, and on their retailing in the second-hand trade and seconds dealing, street markets, new multiple stores, department stores, independent dress shops and home dressmaking. The book also discusses the specific impact of this new product within the emerging mass manufactured goods mail order catalogue industry in England. These outlets all offered venues of consumption to the young, employed, modern working-class woman, and are analysed in the context of old and new businesses practices. The actuality of the garments worn by these young women is paramount to this research and will be at the forefront of all findings and outcomes. Dr Cheryl Roberts is Senior Lecturer at Chelsea, Camberwell and Wimbledon (CCW), University of Arts London (UAL), UK. She also teaches on the Royal College of Art/V&A Museum MA History of Design Programme and is currently Visiting Research Fellow in the School of Humanities at the University of Brighton, UK. Her research is rooted in the material culture of objectsparticularly the consumption of dress and textilesand how they acquire meaning through their relationship with specific acts in historical and cultural contexts. 001450469 588__ $$aOnline resource; title from PDF title page (SpringerLink, viewed October 31, 2022). 001450469 650_0 $$aWomen's clothing$$zEngland$$xHistory$$y20th century. 001450469 650_0 $$aFashion$$zEngland$$xHistory$$y20th century. 001450469 650_0 $$aWorking class women$$xSocial conditions$$y20th century. 001450469 655_7 $$aHistory.$$2fast$$0(OCoLC)fst01411628 001450469 655_0 $$aElectronic books. 001450469 77608 $$iPrint version:$$z3030946126$$z9783030946128$$w(OCoLC)1288667409 001450469 830_0 $$aPalgrave studies in fashion and the body. 001450469 852__ $$bebk 001450469 85640 $$3Springer Nature$$uhttps://univsouthin.idm.oclc.org/login?url=https://link.springer.com/10.1007/978-3-030-94613-5$$zOnline Access$$91397441.1 001450469 909CO $$ooai:library.usi.edu:1450469$$pGLOBAL_SET 001450469 980__ $$aBIB 001450469 980__ $$aEBOOK 001450469 982__ $$aEbook 001450469 983__ $$aOnline 001450469 994__ $$a92$$bISE