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Table of Contents
Front Cover
Handbook of Natural Fibres
The Textile Institute Book Series
Recently Published and Upcoming Titles in The Textile Institute Book Series
Handbook of Natural Fibres
Copyright
Contents
Contributors
1A - Introduction to natural textile fibres
1A.1 Historical background of natural fibres
1A.2 Introduction
1A.3 Handbook of natural fibres and its content
1A.4 Sources of further information and advice
References
Further reading
1B - World natural fibre production and employment
1B.1 Overview
1B.2 Natural fibres connect people to markets
1B.2.1 Cotton: the wearable fibre
1B.2.2 Technology drives yield growth
1B.2.3 Biotechnology: the newest driver of change
1B.2.4 Identity cottons
1B.2.5 Organic
1B.2.6 Fairtrade
1B.2.7 Cotton made in Africa
1B.2.8 Better cotton initiative
1B.2.9 Wool: the elegant fibre
1B.2.10 Jute, trending upward
1B.2.11 Coir: production expanding
1B.2.12 Specialized natural fibres
1B.3 The future
Abbreviations
References
One - Fundamentals: Types of fibre, properties, identification and testing
2 - Bast fibres: jute
2.1 Introduction to jute
2.1.1 Origin
2.1.2 History
2.1.3 Adaptation/agroclimatic conditions
2.1.4 Areas of production
2.1.5 Economic importance
2.2 Types of jute
2.2.1 Taxonomy
2.2.2 Main species
2.2.3 Botanical description
2.2.4 Cultivation
2.2.5 Harvesting
2.2.6 Retting
2.2.7 Extraction
2.2.8 Washing
2.2.9 Drying
2.2.10 Fibre quality and grading
2.2.11 Grading systems in different countries
2.3 Fibre morphology
2.3.1 Macrostructure
2.3.2 Microstructure and appearance
2.4 Chemical composition
2.4.1 Description
2.4.2 Chemical structure
2.4.2.1 Structure of alphacellulose
2.4.2.2 Structure of hemicelluose.
2.4.2.3 Structure of lignin
2.4.2.4 Structure of pectin
2.4.2.5 Mineral and colouring matters
2.4.3 Chemical composition of jute
2.5 Properties of jute
2.5.1 Physical properties
2.5.2 Thermal properties
2.5.3 Electrical properties
2.5.4 Optical properties
2.5.5 Frictional properties
2.5.6 Chemical properties
2.5.7 Effect of chemicals on jute
2.5.7.1 Effect of alkali
2.5.7.2 Effect of acid
2.5.7.3 Effect of bleaching agent
2.6 Typical applications
2.6.1 Conventional/traditional applications
2.6.2 Unconventional/diversified applications
2.7 Conclusions
2.7.1 Environmental advantages
2.7.2 Socioeconomic impact
2.8 Sources of further information and advice
2.8.1 Key books
2.8.2 Major trade and professional bodies
2.8.3 Research and development organizations and groups
2.8.4 Websites
Bibliography
3 - Bast fibres: ramie
3.1 Introduction to ramie
3.1.1 Origin
3.1.2 History
3.1.3 Adaptation/agroclimatic conditions
3.1.4 Areas of production
3.1.5 Economic importance
3.2 Types of ramie
3.2.1 Taxonomy
3.2.2 Main species
3.2.3 Botanical description
3.2.4 Cultivation
3.2.5 Harvesting
3.2.6 Fibre extraction
3.2.7 Degumming
3.2.8 Fibre quality and grading
3.3 Fibre morphology
3.4 Properties of ramie
3.5 Typical applications
3.6 Conclusions
3.7 Sources of further information and advice
3.7.1 Key books
3.7.2 Research and development organizations and groups
Further reading
4 - Bast fibres: kenaf
4.1 Introduction to kenaf
4.1.1 Origin and history
4.1.2 Taxonomy
4.1.3 Botanical description
4.1.3.1 Root
4.1.3.2 Stems
4.1.3.3 Leaves
4.1.3.4 Flowers
4.1.3.5 Fruits and seeds (Ayadi et al., 2017)
4.1.3.6 Adaptation and agro-climatic conditions
4.1.4 Cultivation
4.1.4.1 Areas of production.
4.1.4.2 Harvesting
4.1.4.3 Economy of kenaf production and their competitiveness to other crops
4.1.4.4 Retting and extraction
4.1.4.5 Grading systems in different countries
4.1.4.6 Varieties and breeding
4.2 Application
4.2.1 Conventional applications
4.2.1.1 Food use
4.2.1.2 Feed use
4.2.2 Unconventional/diversified applications
4.2.2.1 Natural Fibre/plastic compounds
4.2.2.2 Textile application
4.2.2.3 Bioenergy production
4.2.2.4 Phytoremediation
4.2.2.5 Medicine
4.3 Conclusion
4.4 Future prospects
4.5 Sources of further information and advice
4.5.1 Key books
4.5.2 Websites
4.5.3 Research and development organizations and groups
Acknowledgements
References
5A - Bast fibres: flax
5A.1 Introduction
5A.1.1 Current world demand for flax fibres
5A.1.2 History
5A.2 Flax plant morphology
5A.2.1 The root and rootlets (root hairs)
5A.2.2 The wooden cylinder
5A.2.3 Flax fibers
5A.2.4 The holding tissue
5A.3 Structure and chemical composition of flax
5A.4 Flax agrotechnology (agrotechnics)
5A.4.1 Climate and soil requirements
5A.4.2 Crop rotation
5A.4.3 Soil cultivation
5A.4.4 Fertilization
5A.4.5 Sowing
5A.4.6 Postemergent treatments
5A.4.7 Cultivars
5A.5 Flax harvesting
5A.6 Degumming
5A.6.1 Retting of flax: water and dew retting
5A.6.1.1 Water retting
5A.6.1.2 Dew retting
5A.6.2 Osmotic degumming
5A.6.3 Enzymatic degumming
5A.6.3.1 New process of plant fibres degumming using electric resonance technology
5A.7 Scutching
5A.7.1 Decortication of green straw
5A.8 Hackling (combing)
5A.9 'Cottonization'
5A.9.1 'Cotton' type flax fibre
5A.9.2 'Wool' type flax fibre
5A.9.3 Spinning
5A.9.4 Problems with spinning linen
5A.9.5 Developments in linen spinning
5A.10 Bleaching and dyeing.
5A.10.1 Bleaching
5A.10.2 Dyeing
5A.10.2.1 Dyeing with natural dyestuffs (of plant and insect origin)
Blue
Red
Yellow
5A.10.2.2 Dyeing with synthetic dyestuffs
5A.10.2.3 Printing
5A.11 Finishing
5A.12 Recapitulation
5A.13 Conclusions and future trends
5A.13.1 Conclusions
5A.13.2 Future trends
5A.14 Sources of further information and advice
References
5B - Bast fibres: hemp cultivation and production
5B.1 Introduction
5B.1.1 What's in a name?
5B.1.1.1 A brief history and background of hemp
5B.2 The hemp plant
5B.2.1 Botany of fibre hemp
5B.2.2 Morphology of fibre hemp stems
5B.2.3 Chemical composition of hemp stems
5B.3 Hemp cultivation
5B.3.1 Hemp breeding and cultivars
5B.3.2 Hemp cropping
5B.3.2.1 Crop environment: climate and soil
5B.3.2.2 Crop environment: soil date and sowing density
5B.3.2.3 Crop environment: husbandry
5B.3.2.4 Harvesting
5B.4 Retting
5B.4.1 Field (dew) retting
5B.4.2 Water retting
5B.4.3 Chemical retting
5B.4.4 Enzyme retting
5B.5 Fibre extraction
5B.5.1 Breaking and scutching
5B.5.2 Decortication and fibre cleaning
5B.5.2.1 Decortication
5B.5.2.2 Fibre cleaning
5B.5.2.3 Picker
5B.5.2.4 Step cleaner
5B.5.2.5 Shaker table
5B.5.2.6 Fibre opening
5B.5.2.7 Opener
5B.5.2.8 Carding
5B.6 Hemp fibre spinning
5B.6.1 Long-fibre spinning
5B.6.1.1 Preparation of long-fibre hemp
5B.6.2 Short-fibre spinning
5B.6.2.1 Carding
5B.6.2.2 Combing, drawing and doubling
5B.6.2.3 Spinning
Dry spinning
Alternative spinning methods
Winding
5B.7 Conclusions and future trends
5B.7.1 Further information
5B.7.2 Research and development
5B.7.2.1 Institute of Natural Fibres
5B.7.2.2 European Industrial Hemp Association.
5B.7.2.3 Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group
References
Further reading
6 - Abaca: cultivation, obtaining fibre and potential uses
6.1 Cultivation and fibre extraction
6.1.1 Cultivation
6.1.2 Fibre extraction
6.2 Characterization of fibre, physical and chemical properties
6.2.1 Structure and physical properties of Abaca fibre
6.2.2 Chemical properties of Abaca
6.3 Cellulose and paper production
6.3.1 Pulp and paper
6.3.1.1 Processes for obtaining pulp
6.3.1.2 Abaca paper applications
6.4 Textile and nontextile products
6.5 Crafts
6.6 Prospective of potential uses of Abaca fibre
6.6.1 Abaca fibre-reinforced polymer composites
6.6.2 Biodegradable composites
6.6.3 Nanocomposites
6.6.4 Structural, automotive and industrial applications
6.7 International market
6.8 Conclusions
6.9 Future trends
6.10 Source of further information and advice
6.10.1 Agriculture
6.10.2 International trade
6.10.3 Pulp and paper
6.10.4 Industrial textile
6.10.5 Industrial development
6.10.6 Handicrafts
References
7 - Bamboo fibre
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Morphology of bamboo fibres
7.3 Chemical composition and natural durability
7.4 Manufacturing process of regenerated bamboo fibre
7.5 Advantages of bamboo fibre
7.5.1 Smooth, soft and luxurious feel
7.5.2 Allergy reduced
7.5.3 Good absorption ability
7.5.4 Temperature adaptability
7.5.5 Natural antibacterial properties
7.5.6 Thermal regulating
7.5.7 UV protection
7.5.8 Antistatic
7.5.9 Green and biodegradable
7.5.10 Breathable and cool
7.6 Bamboo fibre fabric production flow
7.7 Dyeing and finishing of bamboo textile
7.8 The end-use of bamboo fibre
7.9 Fashion trend and bamboo clothing
7.10 Conclusion
References
Further reading.
8 - Coconut fibre: its structure, properties and applications.
Handbook of Natural Fibres
The Textile Institute Book Series
Recently Published and Upcoming Titles in The Textile Institute Book Series
Handbook of Natural Fibres
Copyright
Contents
Contributors
1A - Introduction to natural textile fibres
1A.1 Historical background of natural fibres
1A.2 Introduction
1A.3 Handbook of natural fibres and its content
1A.4 Sources of further information and advice
References
Further reading
1B - World natural fibre production and employment
1B.1 Overview
1B.2 Natural fibres connect people to markets
1B.2.1 Cotton: the wearable fibre
1B.2.2 Technology drives yield growth
1B.2.3 Biotechnology: the newest driver of change
1B.2.4 Identity cottons
1B.2.5 Organic
1B.2.6 Fairtrade
1B.2.7 Cotton made in Africa
1B.2.8 Better cotton initiative
1B.2.9 Wool: the elegant fibre
1B.2.10 Jute, trending upward
1B.2.11 Coir: production expanding
1B.2.12 Specialized natural fibres
1B.3 The future
Abbreviations
References
One - Fundamentals: Types of fibre, properties, identification and testing
2 - Bast fibres: jute
2.1 Introduction to jute
2.1.1 Origin
2.1.2 History
2.1.3 Adaptation/agroclimatic conditions
2.1.4 Areas of production
2.1.5 Economic importance
2.2 Types of jute
2.2.1 Taxonomy
2.2.2 Main species
2.2.3 Botanical description
2.2.4 Cultivation
2.2.5 Harvesting
2.2.6 Retting
2.2.7 Extraction
2.2.8 Washing
2.2.9 Drying
2.2.10 Fibre quality and grading
2.2.11 Grading systems in different countries
2.3 Fibre morphology
2.3.1 Macrostructure
2.3.2 Microstructure and appearance
2.4 Chemical composition
2.4.1 Description
2.4.2 Chemical structure
2.4.2.1 Structure of alphacellulose
2.4.2.2 Structure of hemicelluose.
2.4.2.3 Structure of lignin
2.4.2.4 Structure of pectin
2.4.2.5 Mineral and colouring matters
2.4.3 Chemical composition of jute
2.5 Properties of jute
2.5.1 Physical properties
2.5.2 Thermal properties
2.5.3 Electrical properties
2.5.4 Optical properties
2.5.5 Frictional properties
2.5.6 Chemical properties
2.5.7 Effect of chemicals on jute
2.5.7.1 Effect of alkali
2.5.7.2 Effect of acid
2.5.7.3 Effect of bleaching agent
2.6 Typical applications
2.6.1 Conventional/traditional applications
2.6.2 Unconventional/diversified applications
2.7 Conclusions
2.7.1 Environmental advantages
2.7.2 Socioeconomic impact
2.8 Sources of further information and advice
2.8.1 Key books
2.8.2 Major trade and professional bodies
2.8.3 Research and development organizations and groups
2.8.4 Websites
Bibliography
3 - Bast fibres: ramie
3.1 Introduction to ramie
3.1.1 Origin
3.1.2 History
3.1.3 Adaptation/agroclimatic conditions
3.1.4 Areas of production
3.1.5 Economic importance
3.2 Types of ramie
3.2.1 Taxonomy
3.2.2 Main species
3.2.3 Botanical description
3.2.4 Cultivation
3.2.5 Harvesting
3.2.6 Fibre extraction
3.2.7 Degumming
3.2.8 Fibre quality and grading
3.3 Fibre morphology
3.4 Properties of ramie
3.5 Typical applications
3.6 Conclusions
3.7 Sources of further information and advice
3.7.1 Key books
3.7.2 Research and development organizations and groups
Further reading
4 - Bast fibres: kenaf
4.1 Introduction to kenaf
4.1.1 Origin and history
4.1.2 Taxonomy
4.1.3 Botanical description
4.1.3.1 Root
4.1.3.2 Stems
4.1.3.3 Leaves
4.1.3.4 Flowers
4.1.3.5 Fruits and seeds (Ayadi et al., 2017)
4.1.3.6 Adaptation and agro-climatic conditions
4.1.4 Cultivation
4.1.4.1 Areas of production.
4.1.4.2 Harvesting
4.1.4.3 Economy of kenaf production and their competitiveness to other crops
4.1.4.4 Retting and extraction
4.1.4.5 Grading systems in different countries
4.1.4.6 Varieties and breeding
4.2 Application
4.2.1 Conventional applications
4.2.1.1 Food use
4.2.1.2 Feed use
4.2.2 Unconventional/diversified applications
4.2.2.1 Natural Fibre/plastic compounds
4.2.2.2 Textile application
4.2.2.3 Bioenergy production
4.2.2.4 Phytoremediation
4.2.2.5 Medicine
4.3 Conclusion
4.4 Future prospects
4.5 Sources of further information and advice
4.5.1 Key books
4.5.2 Websites
4.5.3 Research and development organizations and groups
Acknowledgements
References
5A - Bast fibres: flax
5A.1 Introduction
5A.1.1 Current world demand for flax fibres
5A.1.2 History
5A.2 Flax plant morphology
5A.2.1 The root and rootlets (root hairs)
5A.2.2 The wooden cylinder
5A.2.3 Flax fibers
5A.2.4 The holding tissue
5A.3 Structure and chemical composition of flax
5A.4 Flax agrotechnology (agrotechnics)
5A.4.1 Climate and soil requirements
5A.4.2 Crop rotation
5A.4.3 Soil cultivation
5A.4.4 Fertilization
5A.4.5 Sowing
5A.4.6 Postemergent treatments
5A.4.7 Cultivars
5A.5 Flax harvesting
5A.6 Degumming
5A.6.1 Retting of flax: water and dew retting
5A.6.1.1 Water retting
5A.6.1.2 Dew retting
5A.6.2 Osmotic degumming
5A.6.3 Enzymatic degumming
5A.6.3.1 New process of plant fibres degumming using electric resonance technology
5A.7 Scutching
5A.7.1 Decortication of green straw
5A.8 Hackling (combing)
5A.9 'Cottonization'
5A.9.1 'Cotton' type flax fibre
5A.9.2 'Wool' type flax fibre
5A.9.3 Spinning
5A.9.4 Problems with spinning linen
5A.9.5 Developments in linen spinning
5A.10 Bleaching and dyeing.
5A.10.1 Bleaching
5A.10.2 Dyeing
5A.10.2.1 Dyeing with natural dyestuffs (of plant and insect origin)
Blue
Red
Yellow
5A.10.2.2 Dyeing with synthetic dyestuffs
5A.10.2.3 Printing
5A.11 Finishing
5A.12 Recapitulation
5A.13 Conclusions and future trends
5A.13.1 Conclusions
5A.13.2 Future trends
5A.14 Sources of further information and advice
References
5B - Bast fibres: hemp cultivation and production
5B.1 Introduction
5B.1.1 What's in a name?
5B.1.1.1 A brief history and background of hemp
5B.2 The hemp plant
5B.2.1 Botany of fibre hemp
5B.2.2 Morphology of fibre hemp stems
5B.2.3 Chemical composition of hemp stems
5B.3 Hemp cultivation
5B.3.1 Hemp breeding and cultivars
5B.3.2 Hemp cropping
5B.3.2.1 Crop environment: climate and soil
5B.3.2.2 Crop environment: soil date and sowing density
5B.3.2.3 Crop environment: husbandry
5B.3.2.4 Harvesting
5B.4 Retting
5B.4.1 Field (dew) retting
5B.4.2 Water retting
5B.4.3 Chemical retting
5B.4.4 Enzyme retting
5B.5 Fibre extraction
5B.5.1 Breaking and scutching
5B.5.2 Decortication and fibre cleaning
5B.5.2.1 Decortication
5B.5.2.2 Fibre cleaning
5B.5.2.3 Picker
5B.5.2.4 Step cleaner
5B.5.2.5 Shaker table
5B.5.2.6 Fibre opening
5B.5.2.7 Opener
5B.5.2.8 Carding
5B.6 Hemp fibre spinning
5B.6.1 Long-fibre spinning
5B.6.1.1 Preparation of long-fibre hemp
5B.6.2 Short-fibre spinning
5B.6.2.1 Carding
5B.6.2.2 Combing, drawing and doubling
5B.6.2.3 Spinning
Dry spinning
Alternative spinning methods
Winding
5B.7 Conclusions and future trends
5B.7.1 Further information
5B.7.2 Research and development
5B.7.2.1 Institute of Natural Fibres
5B.7.2.2 European Industrial Hemp Association.
5B.7.2.3 Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group
References
Further reading
6 - Abaca: cultivation, obtaining fibre and potential uses
6.1 Cultivation and fibre extraction
6.1.1 Cultivation
6.1.2 Fibre extraction
6.2 Characterization of fibre, physical and chemical properties
6.2.1 Structure and physical properties of Abaca fibre
6.2.2 Chemical properties of Abaca
6.3 Cellulose and paper production
6.3.1 Pulp and paper
6.3.1.1 Processes for obtaining pulp
6.3.1.2 Abaca paper applications
6.4 Textile and nontextile products
6.5 Crafts
6.6 Prospective of potential uses of Abaca fibre
6.6.1 Abaca fibre-reinforced polymer composites
6.6.2 Biodegradable composites
6.6.3 Nanocomposites
6.6.4 Structural, automotive and industrial applications
6.7 International market
6.8 Conclusions
6.9 Future trends
6.10 Source of further information and advice
6.10.1 Agriculture
6.10.2 International trade
6.10.3 Pulp and paper
6.10.4 Industrial textile
6.10.5 Industrial development
6.10.6 Handicrafts
References
7 - Bamboo fibre
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Morphology of bamboo fibres
7.3 Chemical composition and natural durability
7.4 Manufacturing process of regenerated bamboo fibre
7.5 Advantages of bamboo fibre
7.5.1 Smooth, soft and luxurious feel
7.5.2 Allergy reduced
7.5.3 Good absorption ability
7.5.4 Temperature adaptability
7.5.5 Natural antibacterial properties
7.5.6 Thermal regulating
7.5.7 UV protection
7.5.8 Antistatic
7.5.9 Green and biodegradable
7.5.10 Breathable and cool
7.6 Bamboo fibre fabric production flow
7.7 Dyeing and finishing of bamboo textile
7.8 The end-use of bamboo fibre
7.9 Fashion trend and bamboo clothing
7.10 Conclusion
References
Further reading.
8 - Coconut fibre: its structure, properties and applications.