Cover
Title
Copyright
Contents
Contributors
1 - Introduction to beach morphodynamics
Chapter outline
1.1 - Introduction
1.1.1 - Chapter content
1.1.2 - Emerging developments in the study of sandy beaches
References
2 - Beach sand and its origins
Chapter outline
2.1 - Introduction
2.2 - Brief history of provenance studies
2.3 - Sources of beach sand
2.3.1 - Fluvial sand supply
2.3.2 - Production of sand by coastal erosion
2.3.3 - Production of sand by seabed erosion
2.3.4 - Biological production of carbonate sands
2.3.5 - Artificial and nourished beaches
2.4 - Methodological aspects
2.4.1 - Sampling strategies and grain-size analysis
2.4.2 - Hydraulics of beach sand
2.4.3 - Grain size and beach slope relations
2.5 - Conclusions and recommendations
References
3 - Wave climates: deep water to shoaling zone
Chapter outline
3.1 - Introduction
3.2 - Description of a sea state
3.3 - Databases
3.3.1 - Stereo-photography
3.3.2 - Imaging radars
3.3.3 - Laser altimetry
3.3.4 - Radar altimetry
3.4 - Long-term distribution of sea state parameters
3.5 - Extreme value distribution of sea state parameters
3.6 - Non-stationary wave climate
3.7 - Wave atlas
3.8 - Summary
References
4 - Wave behaviour outside the surf zone
Chapter outline
4.1 - General introduction
4.2 - Wave theories
4.2.1 - Deep- and shallow-water linear waves
4.2.2 - Dispersion relation, group speed and phase speed
4.2.3 - Non-linear waves: Stokes, cnoidal and solitary wave theories
4.2.4 - Concept of wave rays
4.3 - Wave shoaling, refraction and diffraction
4.3.1 - Wave shoaling
4.3.2 - Wave refraction
4.3.3 - Wave diffraction
4.3.4 - Measurement and analysis of waves
4.3.4.1 - Measurement
4.3.4.2 - Analysis.

4.4 - Wave dissipation
4.4.1 - In deep water (white-capping)
4.4.1.1 - Theory and observations
4.4.1.2 - Measurement techniques
4.4.2 - Bottom friction
4.4.2.1 - Theory
4.4.2.2 - Measurement and analysis
4.5 - Conclusions
References
5 - Tidal modulation
Chapter outline
5.1 - Introduction
5.2 - Tidal processes
5.2.1 - Tidal range and impact on the inshore/breaker wave modulation
5.2.2 - Tidal currents and their impact on inshore circulation
5.3 - Beach morphodynamics
5.3.1 - Effect of tides on beach morphology
5.3.2 - Morphodynamic models of macrotidal beaches and the role of tidal modulation on the beach state
5.3.3 - Tidal modulation of the RTR and beach type/states
5.4 - Conclusions
References
6 - Breaking waves
Chapter outline
6.1 - Introduction
6.2 - Depth-induced wave breaking in the nearshore
6.2.1 - The break-point location
6.2.2 - Wave breaker types
6.2.3 - Predicting wave breaking
6.3 - Wave breaking in the surf zone
6.3.1 - Measuring waves
6.3.2 - Wave height decay
6.3.3 - Individual wave behaviour
6.3.4 - Breaker types
6.3.5 - Wave speeds
6.3.6 - Wave height distributions of broken waves
6.3.7 - The fraction of broken waves
6.4 - Modelling wave energy dissipation in the surf zone
6.4.1 - Parametric wave energy dissipation models
6.4.2 - Intermediate and shallow water models
6.5 - Conclusions
References
7 - The surf zone
Chapter outline
7.1 - What is the surf zone?
7.2 - Radiation stress and wave set-up
7.2.1 - Radiation stress
7.2.2 - Applications of radiation stress: Wave set-up and set-down
7.3 - Infragravity waves
7.3.1 - What is an infragravity wave?
7.3.2 - Wave reflection
7.3.3 - Types of infragravity waves
7.3.3.1 - Bound infragravity waves.

7.3.3.2 - Breakpoint-generated infragravity waves
7.3.3.3 - Edge waves
7.4 - Surf zone currents
7.4.1 - Bed return flow
7.4.1.1 - What goes in, must go out
7.4.1.2 - Stress imbalances drive bed return flow
7.4.1.3 - Sediment transport by bed return flow
7.4.2 - Rip currents
7.4.3 - Longshore currents
7.4.3.1 - Longshore-directed radiation stress drives longshore currents
7.4.3.2 - Predicting longshore currents on planar beaches
7.4.3.3 - Longshore currents on barred beaches
7.4.3.4 - Shear waves and tides modulate longshore currents
7.4.3.5 - Shear waves and sediment transport
7.5 - Summary
References
8 - The swash zone
Chapter outline
8.1 - Introduction: definition of terms and chapter overview
8.2 - Swash zone morphology
8.2.1 - Beach face slope
8.2.2 - Beach berms
8.2.3 - Beach steps
8.2.4 - Beach scarps
8.2.5 - Sediment sorting in the swash zone
8.3 - Shoreline kinematics and swash zone morphodynamics
8.3.1 - Shoreline oscillations driven by standing waves and bores
8.3.2 - Evolving swash spectral signatures under variable incident waves: swash and the beach-state model
8.4 - Fluid dynamics, sediment transport and the swash zone profile
8.4.1 - Swash motion
8.4.2 - Influence of beach slope, wave frequency and wave amplitude
8.4.3 - Kinematics
8.4.4 - Models for bed shear stress, boundary layer and sediment transport
8.4.5 - Equilibrium beach profile gradient in the swash zone
8.5 - Swash as a component of coastal inundation
8.5.1 - Wave run-up
8.5.2 - Swash overtopping
8.6 - Concluding remarks
References
9 - Marine sediment transport
Chapter outline
9.1 - Introduction
9.1.1 - Timescales of sediment transport
9.2 - Sediment properties
9.2.1 - Initiation of motion
9.2.2 - Sediment fall velocity.

9.3 - Modes of sediment transport
9.3.1 - Suspended load and the advection diffusion approach
9.3.2 - Bedload transport
9.3.2.1 - Shear approach to total bedload
9.3.2.2 - Energetics approach to bedload (Bagnold, Bailard, Bowen line of models)
9.4 - Alongshore and cross-shore sediment transport
9.4.1 - Alongshore sediment transport
9.4.1.1 - Estimating wave-driven alongshore sediment transport
9.4.2 - Cross-shore sediment transport
9.4.2.1 - Mechanisms of cross-shore sediment transport
9.5 - The present state and future challenges in sediment transport modelling
9.6 - Measuring the magnitude of sediment transport along sandy beaches
9.7 - Conclusions and outlook
References
10 - Aeolian (windblown) sand transport over beaches
Chapter outline
10.1 - Introduction
10.2 - Fundamentals of aeolian sand transport
10.3 - Aeolian sand transport models
10.4 - Controls on aeolian sand transport on beaches
10.4.1 - Regional wind climate and geomorphically effective sand transport events
10.4.2 - Beach width and the 'fetch effect'
10.4.3 - Surface moisture interactions
10.4.4 - Salt and biological crusts
10.4.5 - Surface roughness elements and vegetation
10.4.6 - Slope and topographic effects
10.5 - Summary and conclusions
References
11 - Rip currents
Chapter outline
11.1 - Introduction
11.2 - Rip circulation
11.3 - Rip types
11.3.1 - Hydrodynamically controlled rip currents
11.3.2 - Bathymetrically controlled rip currents
11.3.3 - Boundary-controlled rip currents
11.3.4 - Embayed-cellular rips and mega-rips
11.4 - Spacing and morphology of channel rips
11.5 - Sediment transport in channel rips
11.6 - Morphodynamic evolution of rip systems
11.6.1 - Straight open coasts
11.6.2 - Embayed beaches.

11.7 - Role of rips in nearshore, beach and dune interaction
11.8 - Rip forecasting and monitoring
11.9 - Summary
References
12 -From cusps to capes: self-organised shoreline shapes
Chapter outline
12.1 - Introduction
12.2 - Beach cusps
12.3 - Alongshore sandwaves
12.4 - Cuspate capes
12.5 - Discussion
References
13 - Rhythmic patterns in the surfzone
Chapter outline
13.1 - Introduction
13.2 - Patterns
13.2.1 - Shore-parallel sandbars
13.2.2 - Multiple sandbars
13.2.3 - Crescentic sandbars
13.2.3.1 - Observations of crescentic sandbar patterns and behaviours
13.2.3.2 - Physical mechanisms and modelling of crescentic sandbars
13.2.4 - Transverse sandbars
13.3 - Summary and perspectives
References
14 - Mixed sand and gravel beaches
Chapter outline
14.1 - Introduction
14.1.1 - Location and main characteristics
14.1.2 - Brief historical review
14.1.3 - The role of geological factors
14.1.4 - Objectives and scope
14.2 - Characteristics of MSGB
14.2.1 - Steps
14.2.2 - Berms
14.2.3 - Cusps
14.3 - Hydrodynamics of MSGB under short and long waves
14.3.1 - Swash: wave run-up and set-up
14.3.2 - Overtopping and overwashing
14.3.3 - The role of wave reflection
14.3.4 - Groundwater flows: infiltration and exfiltration
14.4 - Morphodynamics of MSGB: sediment erosion and accumulation under multiple spatial and temporal scales
14.4.1 - Longshore sediment transport on MSGB
14.4.2 - Cross-shore sediment transport at MSGB
14.4.3 - Morphodynamics of storms and natural recovery: evidence from MSGB on the Alborán Sea
14.5 - Discussion and conclusions
14.5.1 - Morphodynamic differences between sandy beaches and MSGB
14.5.2 - Summary and open research questions
References
15 - Sandy beaches in estuaries and bays
Chapter outline.

15.1 - Definition of bay and estuary beaches (BEBs).