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000716662 05000 $$aPN56.C684$$bF45 2014
000716662 08200 $$a809/.933564$$223
000716662 24500 $$aFashioning the nineteenth century /$$cCristina Giorcelli and Paula Rabinowitz, editors.
000716662 264_1 $$aMinneapolis :$$bUniversity of Minnesota Press,$$c[2014]
000716662 300__ $$axxiii, 289 pages, 4 unnumbered pages of color plates :$$billustrations (some color) ;$$c21 cm.
000716662 336__ $$atext$$2rdacontent
000716662 337__ $$aunmediated$$2rdamedia
000716662 338__ $$avolume$$2rdacarrier
000716662 4901_ $$aHabits of being ;$$v3
000716662 504__ $$aIncludes bibliographical references.
000716662 50500 $$tClothing, Dress, Fashion: An Arcade --$$tIntroduction: Fashioning a Century /$$gCristina Giorcelli --$$g1.$$tPsychoanalytic Views of Cross-Dressing and Transvestism /$$rBianca Iaccarino Idelson --$$g2.$$tOur Job Is to Create Beauty: A Personal Memoir of La Perla /$$rAnna Masotti --$$g3.$$tModernity Clothing: Birthing the Modern Atlantic/Birthing the Modern Republic /$$rCarroll Smith-Rosenberg --$$g4.$$tGarment of the Unseen: The Philosophy of Clothes in Carlyle and Emerson /$$rGiuseppe Nori --$$g5.$$tAn Emblem of All the Rest: Wearing the Widow's Cap in Victorian Literature /$$rDagni Bredesen --$$g6.$$tClothing the Marmorean Flock: Sartorial Historicism and The Marble Faun /$$rBruno Monfort --$$g7.$$tFlorence /$$rBeryl Korot --$$g8.$$tAccessories to the Crime in What Maisie Knew /$$rClair Hughes --$$g9.$$tCostume and Form: D'Annunzio and Mutable Appearances /$$rMarta Savini --$$g10.$$tRedefining American Womanhood: Shawls Nineteenth-Century Literature /$$rAnna Scacchi --$$g11.$$tA Lovely Little Coffee-Colored Dress: Education, Female Identity, and Dress in late Nineteenth-Century Italy /$$rCarmela Covato --$$g12.$$tGender and Power: Dressing "Charlie" /$$rCristina Giorcelli --$$g13.$$tImaginative Habits: Fantasies of Undressing in The Ambassadors /$$rAgnès Derail-Imbert --$$tCoda: Seen and Obscene /$$rPaula Rabinowitz.
000716662 520__ $$a" In nineteenth-century Europe and the United States, fashion--once the province of the well-to-do--began to make its way across class lines. At once a democratizing influence and a means of maintaining distinctions, gaps in time remained between what the upper classes wore and what the lower classes later copied. And toward the end of the century, style also moved from the streets to the parlor. The third in a four-part series charting the social, cultural, and political expression of clothing, dress, and accessories, Fashioning the Nineteenth Century focuses on this transformative period in an effort to show how certain items of apparel acquired the status of fashion and how fashion shifted from the realm of the elites into the emerging middle and working classes--and back. The contributors to this volume are leading scholars from France, Italy, and the United States, as well as a practicing psychoanalyst and artists working in fashion and with textiles. Whether considering girls' school uniforms in provincial Italy, widows' mourning caps in Victorian novels, Charlie's varying dress in Kate Chopin's eponymous story, or the language of clothing in Henry James, the essays reveal how changes in ideals of the body and its adornment, in classes and nations, created what we now understand to be the imperatives of fashion. Contributors: Dagni Bredesen, Eastern Illinois U; Carmela Covato, U of Rome Three; Agnes Derail-Imbert, École Normale Superieure/VALE U of Paris, Sorbonne; Clair Hughes, International Christian University of Tokyo; Bianca Iaccarino Idelson; Beryl Korot; Anna Masotti; Bruno Monfort, Universite of Paris, Ouest Nanterre La Defense; Giuseppe Nori, U of Macerata, Italy; Marta Savini, U of Rome Three; Anna Scacchi, U of Padua; Carroll Smith-Rosenberg, U of Michigan. "--$$cProvided by publisher.
000716662 650_0 $$aClothing and dress in literature.
000716662 650_0 $$aFashion in literature.
000716662 650_0 $$aLiterature and society$$xHistory$$y19th century.
000716662 650_0 $$aClothing and dress$$xSocial aspects.
000716662 650_0 $$aFashion$$xSocial aspects.
000716662 7001_ $$aGiorcelli, Cristina,$$eeditor.
000716662 7001_ $$aRabinowitz, Paula,$$eeditor.
000716662 830_0 $$aHabits of being ;$$v3.
000716662 85200 $$bgen$$hPN56.C684$$iF45$$i2014
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000716662 980__ $$aBIB
000716662 980__ $$aBOOK