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Preface; Contents; Contributors; Rogue Waves in Higher Order Nonlinear Schrödinger Models; 1 Introduction; 2 Background; 2.1 Homoclinic Solutions of the NLS Equation as Candidates for Rogue Waves; 2.2 Phase Modulated Rogue Waves; 3 Noisy Rogue Waves; 4 Melnikov Analysis; 5 Random Oceanic Sea States and the Proximity to Homoclinic Data; 6 Non-Gaussian Statistics and the Dependence of Kurtosis on the Proximity to Homoclinic Data; References; Freak-Waves: Compact Equation Versus Fully Nonlinear One; 1 Introduction; 2 Fully Nonlinear Conformal Equations; 3 Compact Equation.
4 Modulational Instability of Wave Train5 Breathers; 6 Conclusions; References; Occurrence of Extreme Waves in Finite Water Depth; 1 Introduction; 2 Data Sets; 2.1 Laboratory Experiments; 2.2 Numerical Simulations; 2.3 Field Measurements: The Lake George Data Set; 3 Evolution of Significant Wave Height and Wave Energy Spectrum; 4 Wave Statistics; 4.1 Skewness and Kurtosis; 4.2 Probability Density Function; 4.3 Wave Crest Distribution; 5 Conclusion; References; Modeling of Rogue Wave Shapes in Shallow Water; 1 Introduction; 2 Theoretical Model; 3 Numerical Model; 4 Conclusions; References.
Non-Gaussian Properties of Shallow Water Waves in Crossing Seas1 Introduction; 2 The Kadomtsev
Petviashvili Equation; 3 Numerical Experiment; 4 Skewness and Kurtosis of the Simulated Surface Elevation; 5 Surface Elevation and Probability Density Function; 6 Wave Height Distribution; 7 Conclusions; References; Searching for Factors that Limit Observed Extreme Maximum Wave Height Distributions in the North Sea; 1 Introduction; 2 Data Sources; 2.1 North Sea Data; 2.2 WAM Model BFI; 3 Results; 4 Discussion; 5 Conclusion; References.
Extremes and Decadal Variations in the Baltic Sea Wave Conditions1 Introduction; 2 Long-Term Wave Measurements and Hindcasts in the Baltic Sea; 2.1 Instrumental Data Sets; 2.2 Visual Observations; 2.3 Long-Term Wave Hindcasts; 3 Wave Climate; 3.1 Statistics of Wave Heights and Periods; 3.2 Extreme Conditions; 3.3 The Ratio of Extreme and Average Wave Heights; 3.4 Sub-basins of the Baltic Sea; 4 Extremes During Windstorm Gudrun; 4.1 The Storm and Waves; 4.2 Modelled Wave Fields; 4.3 Maximum of the Wave Storm; 5 Seasonal, Interannual and Long-Term Variations.
5.1 Temporal Variations in the Wave Heights, Periods and Directions5.2 Variations in the Wave Heights in Very Rough Seas in the Baltic Proper; 5.3 Mismatch of Trends for the Averages and Extremes in the Gulf of Finland; 6 Discussion; References; Runup of Long Irregular Waves on Plane Beach; 1 Introduction; 2 Theoretical Model of the Long Wave Runup; 3 Runup of irregular waves; 4 Conclusion; References; Numerical Study for Run-Up of Breaking Waves of Different Polarities on a Sloping Beach; 1 Introduction; 2 Mathematical Model.
4 Modulational Instability of Wave Train5 Breathers; 6 Conclusions; References; Occurrence of Extreme Waves in Finite Water Depth; 1 Introduction; 2 Data Sets; 2.1 Laboratory Experiments; 2.2 Numerical Simulations; 2.3 Field Measurements: The Lake George Data Set; 3 Evolution of Significant Wave Height and Wave Energy Spectrum; 4 Wave Statistics; 4.1 Skewness and Kurtosis; 4.2 Probability Density Function; 4.3 Wave Crest Distribution; 5 Conclusion; References; Modeling of Rogue Wave Shapes in Shallow Water; 1 Introduction; 2 Theoretical Model; 3 Numerical Model; 4 Conclusions; References.
Non-Gaussian Properties of Shallow Water Waves in Crossing Seas1 Introduction; 2 The Kadomtsev
Petviashvili Equation; 3 Numerical Experiment; 4 Skewness and Kurtosis of the Simulated Surface Elevation; 5 Surface Elevation and Probability Density Function; 6 Wave Height Distribution; 7 Conclusions; References; Searching for Factors that Limit Observed Extreme Maximum Wave Height Distributions in the North Sea; 1 Introduction; 2 Data Sources; 2.1 North Sea Data; 2.2 WAM Model BFI; 3 Results; 4 Discussion; 5 Conclusion; References.
Extremes and Decadal Variations in the Baltic Sea Wave Conditions1 Introduction; 2 Long-Term Wave Measurements and Hindcasts in the Baltic Sea; 2.1 Instrumental Data Sets; 2.2 Visual Observations; 2.3 Long-Term Wave Hindcasts; 3 Wave Climate; 3.1 Statistics of Wave Heights and Periods; 3.2 Extreme Conditions; 3.3 The Ratio of Extreme and Average Wave Heights; 3.4 Sub-basins of the Baltic Sea; 4 Extremes During Windstorm Gudrun; 4.1 The Storm and Waves; 4.2 Modelled Wave Fields; 4.3 Maximum of the Wave Storm; 5 Seasonal, Interannual and Long-Term Variations.
5.1 Temporal Variations in the Wave Heights, Periods and Directions5.2 Variations in the Wave Heights in Very Rough Seas in the Baltic Proper; 5.3 Mismatch of Trends for the Averages and Extremes in the Gulf of Finland; 6 Discussion; References; Runup of Long Irregular Waves on Plane Beach; 1 Introduction; 2 Theoretical Model of the Long Wave Runup; 3 Runup of irregular waves; 4 Conclusion; References; Numerical Study for Run-Up of Breaking Waves of Different Polarities on a Sloping Beach; 1 Introduction; 2 Mathematical Model.